McKinney Gypsy Caravan

One part travel blog. One part nerdy history lesson.

Page 21 of 27

Day 2-Siena and Pisa

Today we started out fairly early. Had breakfast on the rooftop terrace of the Marriott. I didn’t take any pictures of breakfast, but I did capture this cutie who was in a great mood this morning after some much needed sleep.   
 
We hit the road, heading north out of Rome with our first stop being Cerveteri to see some ancient Etruscian ruins. 

If you’ve never heard of the Etruscans, they were the people before the people. We were influenced by Romans, and Romans were greatly influenced by them. They invented city grid layouts, dug water reservoirs to increase their water supply and therefore their crop yields, invented the arch as a sturdy architectural building form, they dry farmed and they invented tile roofs. 

They were also sort of strange. Their men and women dressed alike. They were fat. The Romans called them “pinguis”, the Greeks called them “Tyrrhenioi” both of which mean pudgy. Ha

They also believed that groups of people only had a finite amount of time on the planet given by the gods. So when the Romans showed up in 1BC, they basically just gave up and became Romans, believing that it was the Roman’s time. 

They were also big believers in afterlife and seemed to put a big emphasis on death. We toured an excavated necropolis or “city of the dead” discovered somewhat recently. Hundreds of tombs, some with wall paintings…and very old, most over 2000 years old.

   
    
    
  
History says that Emporer Claudius was the last person alive that still spoke Etruscan, even researching for years and writing a 20 volume text about their history, culture and language. Like a true scholar he interviewed elders over the years- even married an Etruscan woman because he believed in the importance of preserving their culture. 

Ironically, there is no evidence of this 20 volume history today. We misplaced it somewhere amongst the conquering. Barbarians…what do you do?

After that we drove past some thermal baths I had read had been used by the Medici…but it was a full parking lot and a bunch of old Italian men in speedos so we decided we were all set and headed for Siena.

The old city is surrounded by medieval city walls built in the 10-11th centuries mostly to defend itself against Florence- it’s traditional sworn enemy. Driving is extremely limited in all of the old city centers so we probably walked 3-4 miles and just crossed our fingers our luggage would still be in our car when we got back. And it was! Even though when we got back there was a guy leaning on our car which freaked me out a little. Ha

    
    
    
    
  
For a while I thought we were the only people in the whole city.  
    
The Piazza Del Campo is the main square. Everyone was already just hanging out here.

 Norah found the water of course…
  
She wanted to take our picture. Who am I to argue! I never end up in the pictures because I’m always the one taking them!

 The Siena cathedral was unbelievable. Black and white marble gives it such a cool look and the intricate sculpture on the front can’t even be given justice in photos edited on my iPhone.

  
We couldn’t go inside but there are sculptures by Michaelangelo and Donatello and I grabbed this photo from Wikipedia to demonstrate just how amazing this building is:

  It’s a gothic style church built in the 12-1300s and was designed to be the biggest and best Christian church in the world

  
       

        

    

  
   I don’t know the real name of this sculpture but I’m calling it “Fat and Happy”. Like I am this week in Italy.   🙂 

 Butcher. Looking butchy.  

 
  

Had our first proper gelato  

 
   
We went to a Prosciuteria for lunch and got a sampler board of meats, cheeses, fruits, olives, sun dried tomatoes… It was glorious.

  

 When we got up to leave, we tucked Norah in with my scarf because it was getting chilly. She kept pretending to sleep every time I took her picture and then begging to see it. Already with the theatrics….
  
Next we drove another couple hours up to Pisa for the night and decided to check out the Piazza di Mircoli and its famous bell tower.

It’s amazing that a whole city has been reduced to the folly of an engineering mistake in the 1100s. Haha 

 The engineers knew they screwed up quickly- the tower was leaning by the time the third floor was built. Trying to correct it, they put the project on hold. Budgets came and went, wars happened…delaying the completion hundreds of years. Future engineers tried to compensate for the lean and actually tried to cut the stones shorter on one side but the weight of the additional stories just caused it to lean more. Poor tower.

The irony is that if the tower had been completed without the hundred years gap, it most certainly would have fallen over…so we can be thankful for no one knowing how to fix it long enough for the ground to compact and support the future additions. 

 The tower gets all of the attention, but the cathedral and baptistery on the grounds are also stunning- both with very ornate and amazing marble work.   
          
  After that we walked a few blocks off the square to find a little restaurant for some authentic Italian food. We succeeded after basically interviewing the managers and and inspecting the menus of a few places,  decided on an empty restaurant where the owner was super friendly, spoke a little English and recommended the veal ribs. 🙂  

 Traditional Tuscan food was all he made , so we had Beef Tartare, Kegan had a pork steak of some sort and awesome potatoes and I had a porcini and clam pasta dish. So good. 

    Tomorrow it’s across to Bologna. Foodie paradise. Better get my stretchy pants out of the suitcase. 🙂 

Day 1- Rome

Wow. What a full day. I feel like we just did most people’s whole vacation today after an overnight flight in which Norah slept a whopping 2 hours. Which translated to us each getting about an hour each. 

 
Kegan felt terrible all day. I think I felt fine because there are a lot of nights with work that I only get 2-3 hours. I’ve acclimated. Lol

We hit Rome around 9am local time and we were in our rental car headed to our hotel for tonight by 10:30am.

Norah discovered a “playground” with her laser vision by baggage claim so we had to take a 10 minute detour for that.

   
 
Security was extra “military” today in Rome in light of the Paris attacks yesterday. Full gear and machine guns on display almost everywhere there was a crowd. 

Once we checked in we walked to Piazza Spagna via the Medici Palace. More about those Medici once we get to Florence. 

      
 
Norah’s love for water extends to fountains and we always have to play in any water feature we encounter. This could be fun in a country with as many per capita fountains as people. I swear if she dances naked in a fountain in Italy, you guys will be the first to know. 

 
There are citrus trees just growing alongside the road full of fruit. I wanted to pick an orange… But I refrained. I’m guessing prison outside the US is no joke…

 

Did you know that Rome has more obelisks than any other city in the world?? Yeah, neither did I until I researched the history behind this one. 🙂 Apparently this a copy of some great obelisk made by Ramses II is 400 BC or so and brought to Rome after the defeat of Mac Anthony and Cleopatra around 10BC. But we didn’t see that one. We saw this one and thought it was that one. Haha This one was made for some private collector back  in the 1500s when they decided to re-erect the original during the Renaissance. It says that the Roman workers who made the copy accidentally transcribed some of the hieroglyphics upside down or transposed since they were looking at the hieroglyphics while it was on the ground horizontally, taking notes and carving later.  

M     The famous Spanish steps are closed for renovations.(In fact, a lot of sites had scaffolding up right now…must be the “construction season” of Rome)

  The Piazza do Spagna, where a lot of the designer shopping is centralized. Versace, Prada, Valentino, ya know…the stuff no one can really afford.

  

  

Awesome doors. Note the military present on the side. They were pretty prevalent today…and I was okay with that.

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A street vendor roasting chestnuts. It was tempting….

We ended up with doppio espressos and pressed sandwiches for lunch which were amazing.
   

  

   

The Latin inscription on the side of the Santa Maria in Trivio church from like 600AD.  It’s the oldest church in Rome although most of what you see was redone in the late 1500s 

 

The Trevi Fountain. The fountain where the water from the ancient aqueduct ended in Rome; the Aqua Virgo. The water then fed in to the ancient Baths of Agrippa and worked for over 400 years. The acquisition was rebuilt as the Aqua Vergine and now ends in this fountain. This photo really doesn’t do it justice if you’ve never seen it. This is with my extremely wide angle lens…and still barely fit in the frame. Each of those figures is probably 10-15 feet tall . Massive marble sculptures. Gorgeous up close. But so.many.people….I can’t imagine coming here in the middle of the summer in tourist season.
 
This was probably my favorite thing today. Why this isn’t more famous and in a museum somewhere….I don’t know. The Marcus Aurelius column.    

The column was finished in the year 193AD. 1800 years ago!! (Restored in the 1500s). Took over 15 years to make.  It tells the stories of the “Danubian” wars in a spiral relief across 27 blocks of Carrera marble. Unbelievable carvings of war and victories… Just amazing. Apparently in the Middle Ages people used to climb to the top as a challenge. It got so popular that they started auctioning off the rights annually to sell tickets at the site for people who came to climb it. Seeing it in person….no.way.

  
The holes are actually windows  to the hollow interior spiral staircase that leads up to top viewing platform.
 
A bird that also enjoyed the column.   

A girl. Watching the bird.

 Such old streets. You can just feel history with roads like these. (My feet could feel history, too. Haha They are seriously sore this morning from just walking over uneven stones for miles yesterday)  Temple of Hadrian built after his death by his son Antonius Pius in 145AD. Only the columns now remain and have been built into the building behind. Such a cool way to preserve ancient history!

 The side of the Panteon as we walked up.
   
The front from the Plaza Nuvona.

“M.AGRIPPA.L.F.COSTERVTIVM.FECIT”is the enscription in the front. 

M[arcus] AGRIPPA L[ucii] F[ilius] CO[n]S[ul] TERTIUM FECIT

Meaning

“Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, made this building when consul for the third time.”

However, it’s not entirely true. The original Pantheon Agrippa built was destroyed and only the front facade remains. This Patheon was built by Septimis Servius and his son Marcus Aurelius Antoninus in 200AD

 

Amazing metal doors two stories tall.
 
The Panteon holds the record for the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world   

A perfectly circular, dome shaped ceiling with an opening in the high center. To this day, when it rains it rains right inside in the middle and down a drain.

Norah NEEDED a picture with the elephant. There is a monument at every corner. I have no idea what this one is. Ha

Then she needed to take my picture while I’m trying to be nice and get my camera ban before she drops it. Haha
   

I have no idea what this is but was just very cool on the side of a building  

The Altare do Patria (Alter of the Fatherland)    

  
    

The ancient excavated ruins were very cool to see in person versus a textbook.
    
    
    

The Colliseum was even more massive than I had envisioned. What an amazing feat of engineering.
    
              

 
Norah made it to dinner after a nap through the Colliseum. Just barely. Girlie was sleepy. Haha   
   
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We went to sleep very shortly after dinner and had some much needed sleep. Tomorrow is Siena and Pisa with some stops along the way. 

  

It’s Packing Day!

Friday is the day. We head out Friday evening for a two week trip to Italy. We have direct flights from Atlanta to Rome (which was part of our decision to go! Direct flights are really great when traveling with a three year old!)

Since everyone’s favorite post last trip seemed to be the packing tips, I figured I better not disappoint this time either! 

This trip’s goal: 2 weeks, 3 people, no checked bags.

One of our biggest lessons learned from our last trip was that lugging full size suitcases around when every night is a different house or hotel was not much fun…and beyond that, there just isn’t the same storage in a European car vs an American car. With 4 of us in an SUV we barely had room to put our bags.

So… That means 2 weeks of toiletries in plastic zip-lock “TSA compliant” baggies, as well. 1 per person. 

I’m pretty particular about hair and face products so just “using the hotel shampoo and conditioner” like all the other posts I read recommended doesn’t work for me. Plus we aren’t staying in hotels; we’re staying mostly in local apartments booked through AirBnb.

eBay was my best friend for this. I just searched for samples of my have-to-have items. Packets of my shampoo and conditioner were available 10 for $10  

My Wella hair oil is too big, but eBay saved me again- 6 sample vials for $8  

Face lotion- eBay. (I’m not going to price this one for you for fear of you all thinking I’m crazy. Let’s just say when something works, you splurge a little. Ha)  

Norah’s hair also requires particular products so I found a travel version of the Wen product we use on her hair and filled an empty travel container with her “women of color” hair creme. (I kid you not. lol)

You don’t have to go on eBay if you save the bottles from hotel visits or beauty product samples… Even if you don’t like the products, the containers can be useful.

We repurposed this face scrub sample jar into a hair putty holder for Kegan   

Also, Target has a huge travel section and you can usually find small versions of the major brands of items.  

Another area people get frustrated packing in a ziploc bag is perfumes. Kegan found this amazing stick perfume at Victoria’s Secret over 5 years ago and it’s still my travel go-to…although I admit it’s seen better days and is down to the last nubbin.   

If they don’t make your signature scent in a sample size and you have to have it- get one of these bad boys. You set it on top of your bottle and pump it into the travel size. If you do get one, I’d recommend the rollerball kind because those cheap spray tops wouldn’t be as consistent as a standard perfume bottle and you don’t want to walk around smelling like a hooker. Rollerball. You’re welcome.

Last liquid I had to pack was an elective. Since again, we aren’t staying in fully equipped hotels, an iron and ironing board isn’t always readily available. I filled a spray bottle with Downy Wrinkle Releaser and bought this cute little travel garment steamer. I’ll let you know how well that does by the end of the trip.  

Other ways to save on liquids space is to use a stick deodorant instead of a gel or a spray, since it doesn’t have to go in the baggie. Also, you can find this non-aerosol hair powder that is a dry shampoo and root volume in one.   

I won’t say I skimped down to basics on makeup, but did only take the minimum I needed to not feel like I was camping 🙂 I mean, selfies. Right?  

(You haven’t had too much wine-the photos are blurry. My iPhone camera broke just in time for vacation and will only focus less than 6 inches away. I effectively have only a macro lens for this trip.) 

Luckily, my big buy for the trip came in two days ago and I get to review my new Betabrand Storrist Pack!
This backpack appealed to me for a lot of reasons. First is that Betabrand is basically a company founded through crowdsourced innovative products (Work pant Yoga pants, Chef jeans with breathable grommets, RedEye travel cardigan with its own pouch for travel- good stuff)

Also I liked it because it was made for a city bicyclist to pack everything for the day and evening including a computer and your camera gear.  

  

The inside has a bottom compartment- which opens from the front and includes a padded organizer for your camera and lenses  

  

Then the top section is a giant open compartment for clothes that rolls down like a grocery sack to secure everything with a heavy duty strap. 
   

Since I wanted my small travel camera bag for daily use for the trip I opted to not use the included padded organizer this trip, instead using the bottom section to stack all my pants and some PJs for easy access and using the top for my Day 1 clothes when we get to Rome and my camera bag.

The back laptop slot will hold my Galaxy Note tablet since I’m going without a laptop. Yes. You read that right. No.computer. But in full disclosure, I feel better about it because I know our friend Kate is bringing her MacBook Air and she’s coming with us as our Norah evening babysitter for a few nights out during the trip. So it’s not a total cord-cutting. But I still have a little anxiety about it.

The back pocket also holds my Atlas and notes about our itinerary. Very handy.

 

Lastly-we have to have milk for Norah and it worked out well in Ireland to have a cooler for various cheese and meat we errr…meet…along the way that wants to come on the trip with us. So based on the recommendation of friends (Looking at you, Shallbetters) we bought a PolarBear Collapsible cooler in a clearance color.
I packed all of Norah’s stuff for the plane in it for the trip over along with a collapsible shopping bag, so when we get ready to use it as a cooler, I’ll have a tote bag for her stuff as well.

  
So, in the end: not a bad amount! An umbrella down the side of the backpack, Norah’s blanket strapped down to the outside and Barbie supervising the whole endeavor. 

 Lastly, if you’re still reading what has turned into a monstrous post, I thought I might give some ideas for how to pack two weeks of outfits in a carry on. Full disclosure: I packed half my clothes in the blue suitcase, The rest is all of Norah’s stuff and the rest of mine is in the backpack- but I am sure it would have all fit in the blue carry on.
Some tips-take them for what they are worth. First off, choose a color scheme and go with it. Black or Brown. Then you can pick one other main color as well. I chose Black and Navy. Almost all my pieces coordinate around those 2 base colors so I can mix and match.

I decided that I was going to get by with only my 2 pairs of Tieks ballet flats because they not only pack super small, I can walk for days in them they are so comfy! (I was lucky enough to receive a pair as a gift from my stepmom Sherri that got me hooked. Thanks again!)

  I’m taking one black dress that can be paired with sweaters or scarves for nice dinners out if needed.

By taking two really thin shirts that coordinate with the yellow sweater, I have two other options.  
 Same here- two similar colored shirts/scarves give me two options with this heavier sweater for cold days
A Navy cardigan allows me to match the above shirts and pants for a different look , too.  
 And these similar sweaters with dark red allows for mix and matching as well. 

The greatest thing about the plaid scarf is that it’s so big, it doubles as my blanket for the airplane!

 I also have an inflatable travel neck pillow that folds flat in case I do actually get the chance to sleep on the plane. 

Well, I hope something here was useful!

A long post to kick off what will probably be a lot of long posts this trip as there is just too much history to cover in Italy! Just Day 1 in Rome walking through the excavated Roman ruins could span textbooks! The art inside the Galleries Accademia in Florence alone needs a book – and has lots of them! But I’ll try to boil it down to enough highlights to pique your interest for your further research or questions. 

Thanks for following along with our trip! Look forward to sharing our experiences. 🙂

Drumroll, please…

The planning is officially underway for our Fall trip!

 
(Note Norah’s “help” on the little map of Rome sites…she’s such a huge help. Lol) 

Southern Italy and Sicily!

We’ll be heading over for a 2 two-week trip, November 13-November 28. Very much like our Ireland/UK trip, we’ll be in a different town almost every night, just seeing the highlights. 

I’ve been reading up on my Roman and Greek history and learning Italian on my Duolingo app. I am beyond excited 🙂

Itinerary currently includes Rome, Bologna, Revenna, Florence, Tuscany, Naples, Pompeii, Sicily and a few small areas in between.

Any suggestions for us as I plan? I would love some input! 

Thanks,

Erin

Day 23- London Wrap Up

Well, this is it. The last day of our fantasy vacation. 🙂 we didn’t do a lot. We stuck “Baboo” (my mother) with Norah on her birthday…but Norah sang her the cutest Happy Birthday song… and we went to the British Museum.

I was expecting a lot of British things at the Birtish museum….however, it was more of a collection of items from around the world… Which was unexpected. Egyptian mummies, African tribal pieces,  Chinese vases….

They did have some pretty cool items:

 

Inside the building in the Great Hall…I didn’t expect such a modern bright atrium area in that old Greek style building  

  

The Rosetta Stone. It was discovered by a French soldier in Egypt in 1799 when Napoleon invaded Egypt…but the British soon  said, “no, conquering is what WE do…” And forced the French out after the French had defeated the Ottomans…so with victory comes the spoils…and the stone has been on display here in the British Museum since 1802. The stone has basically the same text in three languages- the top is ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics, the middle is Demotic (a newer Egyptian, post-hieroglyphic times) and Ancient Greek at the bottom. This was the first piece that helped us translate ancient Egyptian.      

Cupid.  I can’t imagine the stories of how these pieces came to live in Britain. The war and the conquest and pilfering that would have brought these ancient pieces from their original lands here… 🙂      

Roman mosaics that have been uncovered underneath London      

This ship is actually a clock from the 1500s with moving pieces so that the men on the deck would have rowed, the cannons might have moved…It was so intricate, I would have loved to see it in action. 

  

I would kill to get my hands on some of the old books in the library room. Like these old 1700s atlas volumes- hand drawn maps of the world… 

  

After the British Museum, we went for one last British experience- High Afternoon Tea.   

We had a seat by the window overlooking Hyde Park in this fancy little Park and Tea room.  

Kegan was less than impressed but he was a good sport because I was really excited to be all fancy and high class. Lol  (and I walked around London in heels all day so we would be classy enough for tea time…he knew better than to complain even though he was baking in his Sweater haha) – he says it was actually more of a “braise” since it was trapping in all the moisture. Gross. And definitely not classy. Lol        

Mango and pineapple palate cleanser  

We got to select our tea. I picked Ceylon and Kegan picked Assam (although we wouldn’t have known the difference probably haha)

  

We had trays full of pastries, sandwiches and scones    

Fresh gooseberry and rhubarb jams with butter for our scones  

They insisted we take our cake to go when we couldn’t eat any more haha

Our evening was boring as we spent it packing up for our morning flight. 

Our first flight was uneventful other than it was almost empty. We had the whole plane across the pond to ourselves basically and when Norah went to sleep, we just laid her down in her own row! Haha

 

 

Our second flight from Newark to West Palm was delayed an hour- which was awesome because otherwise we would have missed it. We had to go through a line for customs when we got to Newark… Then we had to get our luggage, because international luggage doesn’t transfer. Then we had to get in another line to drop off our customs declaration forms, then another line to recheck our luggage. Then we had to cross to another terminal by air train to get our second flight- and when we got to the new terminal, they were too busy so they closed that particular security screening and redirected us across to the other side of the terminal where we had another 30 minute wait to be allowed to go through security. 

So…yeah….that was awesome. lol.

But, Norah did a 15 hour day of flights like a champ. No major outbursts or meltdowns- just typical “I don’t want to sit down” 2 year old stuff. She was the official airplane greeter. On her 6 trips to the potty she had to stop and say hi every time to every row on the way to and from. Lol luckily she’s cute and I don’t think anyone about killed her :).

So…this basically concludes the blog trip updates. I am so glad so many people followed our trip and enjoyed the updates! I had fun recording it all and getting to share a little nerd history 🙂 

If you are going on a vacation and want to record your own trip and share it, let me know-you can use this blog, too!  I can create an account for you and show you how easy it is to post updates from your phone! 

I’m already scheming on where and when our next trip will be… I think we are settling on Germany/Switzerland/Austria late late summer or early fall. 

I’ll be sure to post again when we have specifics and give you the option to “opt out” of email updates for whatever comes next. 

Thanks again for following! 

Erin

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