McKinney Gypsy Caravan

One part travel blog. One part nerdy history lesson.

Page 25 of 27

Day 8- Giant’s Causeway and Belfast

As promised, we woke up and went to see the baby sheep this morning. Norah was excited. They were so cute. A couple were only a day old.  

  

 

        

We had stayed above a really great couple’s garage for the night and this snow covered mountain was our view. It was awesome

 

We tried to find this pyramid some guy built in the middle of the woods to be his grave because he was obsessed with Egyptian things…but we couldn’t find it…so it was on up to the coast to th Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge because we apparently have a death wish. For years and years every summer, the fisherman of the area would string up a rope bridge to this small island so they could fish for the season. Nowadays the rope bridge is still there…but I’m not sure it’s any safer.  Lol this definitely wasn’t an American tourist spot. Just a piece of rope separating you from the rocks 40 feet below!

   

                

 

Next we drove over to Giant’s Causeway- probably the most famous natural phenomenon in Ireland/Northern Ireland.

Columnar basalt with hexagonal jointing. Kegan was nerding out ๐Ÿ™‚ (for once it wasn’t me! Ha)

On the shuttle out to the point.   

        

     

“Everyone knows that giants hate to get their feet wet, that’s why they built a footpath to Scotland”    

On our way to the car, we saw our first red telephone booth

  

The next stop was The Dark Hedges- a country road with 200 year old birch trees growing on each side. If you’ve ever seen Game of Thrones, it’s where the filmed “the Kings road for a lot of scenes.

 

It was a very cool road

 

  

 

  

We were tired, wet and cold ….some of us more than others….  …so it was time to head to Belfast.  (I’m going to die In the morning when she sees this lol)

We stopped to see one more round tower in Antrim along the way. I just love the round towers… 

  

Belfast is famous for shipbuilding, including the Titanic… The dry docks are visible from any point of town.

  

A very industrial city…with a long history of violence. The “troubles” are captured through murals and graffiti everywhere you go all over the city. Almost everything is either art or graffiti covered…

   

          

We had to print out boarding passes for our flight to Edinburgh tomorrow because we are flying RyanAir…a very low cost airline…but every little thing costs you including printing boarding passes at the airport- to the tune of $70 a person. So we asked our host for the evening, Valerie, who rented us her 3 bedroom townhome for the night- where we could go. She suggested the library, so off we went. The library looked exactly the same as a US library and they charged 1 pound for 15 minutes of Internet and 15 pence for each printed sheet of paper (so about the same as the U.S. Too)

We then headed downtown while Donna watched the girlie at the house, hoping to eat at a seafood restaurant we heard was great… But we got there and they were closed. Across the street was a place called City Picnic- so we thought “what the heck” and decided to go in there.

Little did we know, it was an “American Hamburger joint”. It was the cutest thing! Haha

Their whole schtick is that they sell all American foods….so it was hilarious to see a wall of things like Nerds candy, Jif peanut butter, Trix cereal… 

And they made cheeseburgers, fries and milkshakes. That’s it. Lol

The food wasn’t very good being objective… But I give them a definite A for effort and theme… and Declan- I believe the owner or manager- told me that if I didn’t like it, that I was to remember that his name was Brian and that the restaurant was McDonalds when I wrote my review. Lol

   

   

We were boring for the evening, doing laundry… I must be making it a little rough on everyone because they are all sacked out before 10pm. ๐Ÿ™‚

Tomorrow will likely not have much to report as most of our day will be traveling but we have a couple sites to see ๐Ÿ™‚ good night!

Couple other photos from Belfast

   

     

Day 7 – Boa Island and Crossing into Northern Ireland

Today we officially crossed over into the UK…even though we are still on the island of Ireland.  (I say that because before I started researching, I didn’t realize that Ireland was its own country, but that Northern Ireland was part of the United Kingdom.)

Great Britain laid claim to the entire island of Ireland in 1801… And that continued until 1921. Northern Ireland was very industrial, whereas most of the rest of Ireland was very agricultural, so N.I. never had the the famine problems or other major social issues. Also, the Northern Ireland area was very Protestant-like Great Britain, and therefore didn’t want to be a part of Ireland and be the minority in a Catholic controlled country, so they remained a territory. They have their own flag and their own culture…but only something like 17% of the population wants to end UK control.

From the 60s through the 90s- Northern Ireland had a lot of unrest. They call it “The Troubles”. Basically the whole Catholic vs Protestant thing still continued up through the 60s in Northern Ireland and finally boiled over to the point that Great Britain played Mom and Dad and took over Northern Ireland by suspending the parliament in Northern Ireland.

This direct British control was totally unacceptable to the Irish Republican Army “guerrillas” which were fighting for a total removal of British influence and Northern Ireland becoming a part of the Republic of Ireland…and the fighting started and continued for over 30 years. 

I think the only reason it ended was because the economy was good, the original fighters had “turned over” to a younger generation…and they just realized it was never going to happen. lol

If you’re over 30 or so, you probably remember some news stories about the terrorism in Northern Ireland on the news. I barely remember bombings and some machine guns and masked men…

So, in 1998, they signed a treaty that basically said any talks of merging NI and Ireland would need votes supporting it from both sides…and with a 17% approval…that’s pretty much proved a very vocal (and terrorist) minority are responsible for the unrest. 

Things still happen here- a couple months ago apparently there were riots and marches here and just last night a woman was shot in both legs in Belfast and they claim it was a “paramilitary style attack”. It’s a big deal here right now it seems. 

So anyway… We started out today on some flat rocks leading into the UK. It looked like brown dirt…almost mud…but it was hard rock! Strange landscape.  

We were headed to something I had found online a couple months ago… An ancient Celtic idol that had been found here around a lake and placed in a cemetary. 

We drove out onto a small island called Boa Island in the middle of a lake (Lough Erne) looking for this stone.

Finally found a farm with a small white sign on their cattle gate. 

If you look close it says “Janus figure”  

There, in the middle of an old family cemetary was the old Janus figure and the “Lusty Beg Man”

It’s called a Janus figure because it is two sided-one side male, one side female- like the two-headed Roman God Janus. However, it actually represents a Celtic diety and its believed that it dates just before Christianity came to Ireland.  

          

 

  

They found this guy on a nearby island about 10 years ago and I guess decided he needed a friend and brought him on over to the cemetary with the Janus statue.  

  It amazes me that this sort of history is just sitting and weathering in a field here and not in a museum or protected in some way! I guess when you have this much history around you start taking it for granted.

We drove on and came across a waterfall along the road- I made Kegan hike back to it haha he teased about how if he didn’t come back that I should come find him…I told him I was going to use the insurance money to buy a castle. Lol  

  

 

Saw a sign for another stone circle along the road so we stopped.    

  

This one was excavated from a peat bog. As we were walking on the ground it felt very springy and fluffy almost. 

 

Norah was helping by adding rocks to the circle haha 

  

We continued on down the road and came to the town of Strabane. Randomly we saw these Giant 12 ft metal statues on the side of the road.  

  

 

 

We had time to kill in the afternoon before going to our rented room for the  night so we added in a little mini side trip about 40km out of the way up to the northern most point in Ireland called Malin Head. Glad we did! Very cool-but freezing and windy- area ๐Ÿ™‚

   

Note the trailers on the right side…maybe we can afford one of these “castles” haha        

       

The tower was used to contact ships and then in World War 2 as a communication hub. They wrote “Eire” in rocks to let planes flying over know they were over Ireland- a neutral country in the conflict. 

After leaving Malin Head we became locals and went to Tesco for some groceries. Tesco is like the Walmart Supercenter of Ireland

 

  

  

 

I did find a couple gems though… Like this: 

 I mean…and they say we’re fat in America….

 I did buy this at a gas station today. Malted hot chocolate? Yes please!

We are staying in the guest house garage apartment on a farm tonight…and the sheep are “lambing”…so I’ll try to get some pictures of them in the morning before we head out. ๐Ÿ™‚ 

Day 6 – County Mayo and County Donegal

Whew…after a real night’s sleep (even though it was a really bad mattress) I feel much better today! ๐Ÿ™‚

We had a lazy morning… Hung out in the apartment, walked up to the market to get some coffee and breakfast. Didn’t hit the road until about 11:30. We really didn’t have much planned today as there just isn’t that much to do in this part of the country. This was basically a travel day to get us up to the northern coast and into Northern Ireland. We meandered through some small towns and followed some detours to a couple castles but mostly just drove backroads and saw a couple things along the way.

When we left Galway, we drove through a couple small little towns in the middle of Sunday mass. The streets were lined with cars…unbelievable just how Catholic the whole country is… 

 

 

We saw a sign along the road for the town of Ballymote  and a castle…so having nothing major to do…why not ๐Ÿ™‚

Turns out this is one of the oldest castles we’ve seen- built around 1300 by the Normans. Normans were from the present day Normandy, France region (named so for the Normans who inhabited the area) Norman is actually a loose translation (and a few hundred years worth of miscommunication) of “Northmen” or “Norsemen” as they were decendants of the Vikings. 

How the Normans ended up in Ireland basically goes back to a woman. (doesn’t it always?)

A king of a region (Mac Murchaida) decided he wanted more land. (Such a tired story, isn’t it? Men…) so he kidnapped the other King’s wife and cows. He was buddy-buddy with the High King of Ireland, so he apparently felt he was invinsable. Then the High King died unexpectedly and the new King didn’t like him, so he banished MacMirchaide.

He fled to Normandy and convinced the French to help him invade Ireland and win back the throne. Thus, Normans in Ireland.    

;  

We drove past this large graveyard… I saw the opportunity for some artsy photos ๐Ÿ™‚ 

  

  

It’s easy to see why the Irish from this area colonized Indiana and Kentucky…it’s like the Indiana of Ireland around this area.  

 

Drove past Muckree Castle which was closed for a wedding   

  

Seriously. It was Indiana. There was nothing exciting for a while. Ha Except for lunch, we stopped at a SuperMac’s. It’s basically the knockoff Irish version of a McDonalds. It was just OK. It was no American McDonalds. Lol

 

 

  

  

We eventually ended up in County Donagel where the rolling hills quickly started becoming mountainous… The views greatly improved! ๐Ÿ™‚ Basically afternoon of some great scenery. 

 

  

  

My favorite picture of the day:

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

This is called the Gleniff Horseshoe…the picture doesn’t do the vastness of this justice…it was so awesome.

  

  

  

  

  

We arrived to our rented room for the night early and the family wasn’t home and wasn’t answering their emails or phones… So we decided we could probably fit something we had on the plans for tomorrow in before sunset, so we headed to the opposite side of the little peninsula to the town of Maghera. I had seen online that there was a really remote beach with some caves around there. 

Eos Waterfall outside of Maghera.

  

   The little sign along the road and small car park is misleading. It’s still a half-mile or more away down a path and eventually over some sand dunes. The wind was freezing and blowing so hard that all of our tracks we made heading to the beach were already gone on our way back. Unfortunately, it was high tide, so we couldn’t co inside the caves…but was still cool to see and to find a beautiful beach that remote. I felt like we were the only people in the world out there! Ha

   

          

  

 

 

Tomorrow is another very similar “choose your own adventure” day. We’ll see what kind of random awesomeness we can find ๐Ÿ™‚

Day 5- The Wild Atlantic Way

Sorry you got an alert a bit ago to a new post. Norah decided to help. I had just started and she decided to grab and my phone and POOF! Her magic fingers hit just the right spot. Lol

We call it “shark mode” when she gets sleepy because if she stops moving she’ll die like a shark. Lol

So anyway- here you go – the complete post haha

We started our day again with another “full Irish”. I know, I just said how I couldn’t eat it every day…but this one was free with the room. 

 

We left Dingle and headed north towards Limerick. It wasn’t long before signs pointed us to another random castle. This area just has castle ruins everywhere. We seriously saw 7 or more old ruined castles today. Some of them I couldn’t even find on the maps!

We came to the town of Ballybunion and I had seen some pictures online of this castle, so we stopped. Turns out there was a playground at the car park, so someone had to ride a chicken. 

   

 

We kept going toward Limerick, which our B&B host told us used to be nicknamed “Stab City”… But that it had been cleaned up in recent years.  Limerick has St John’s castle which is a really well preserved and restored castle. 

Remember the story a couple days ago of how the Irish rebelled in the 1640s and things went well for about 10 years until Cromwell set the whole island on fire?  Well when the Irish Rebellion of 1641 was going well, all of the Protestsnts in the area fled to this castle. So when the Irish got there, having no canons or other artillery to bombard the castle, they started digging out the foundations around the waters and now most of the outer walls have deteriorated. 

   

  

            

 

Leaving Limerick, we hit a few other small things on our way to Galway, the biggest being the Cliffs of Moher. Very amazing…but way touristy. They built a shopping strip into the side of the hill opposite the cliff. Come on! 

  

We did stumble upon this gem. Can’t remember the name now… Too bad it’s only unlocked from June-Sept… It seemed pretty cool inside.   

      

Along the roadway we saw this marker, so we pulled over. Turns out it’s St Brigid’s Well- the patron saint of healing”. People come here from all over to ask for healing of various conditions.  Apparently a very sacred Catholic place for the locals.. Who knew…

Next we passed through Kilfenora, or “The City of Crosses’. An amazing cemetary and church that housed an eight foot high cross. 

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

   

Last stop before Galway was to visit the Poulnadrome Dolman. A portal tomb that dates from prehistoric times. They think they have dated the human remains of this tomb to around 3000 BC. 

It sits in this thick limestone region called The Burren which looks like the lunar surface at times lol

   

      

Norah enjoyed all of the running today ๐Ÿ™‚

 

Lastly we arrived at Salthill Promonade in Galway- we rented an apartment from a guy for the night here from AirBNB. (love that site!) it has an awesome view of the bay here

   

We walked down the hill and gambled a little at one of the many casinos here on this strip… 

(I didn’t win) ๐Ÿ™‚ 

  

  We ate at an amazing Indian restaurant downtown here too that just opened. Best Indian food I’ve ever had!

   

   

I am TIRED today- sorry this post is “mailed in” a bit and probably has a thousand typos since I’m doing the head bob trying to finish this before falling asleep!  ๐Ÿ™‚ headed to sleep to do it again tomorrow ๐Ÿ™‚

Day 4- The Dingle Peninsula

Today was Part 1 of the Wild Atlantic Way. An amazing seafront drive along the western coast of Ireland. Not a ton of known things to see, just kind of a meandering along the way and stopping at anything that seems like a worthwhile detour.

We woke up early. Norah was only up until 3:45am last night. 15 minutes sooner! Win? Lol so two nights in a row I’ve had less than 4 hours of sleep. Tonight is Kegan’s turn…but she was back awake early today with no nap…so we may have turned the corner. I really think she’ll finally be on track tonight. Fingers crossed ๐Ÿ™‚

Our hostess at the Carraig Laith House Bed and Breakfast made us a “Full Irish” to start our day. It has cooked tomatoes, white and black pudding, rashers, sausages and an egg. Definitely not something you could eat every day…but it was awesome. 

 

On our way off the Kerry Peninsula we stopped alongside the road at this sculpture dedicated to St. Brendon. He is the patron saint of travelers and sailors and probably the most famous saint from this area of Ireland.

He was born almost a hundred years after St Patrick and St Declan at the birth of Irish Christianity (like 500AD or so?)….by this time Christianity WAS the religion. The legend was that angels appeared over the house when St Brenden was born and he was marked to be special- because of this, his parents left him as a baby with the Bishop to be educated and raised. Can you imagine- you just gave birth to your baby- some priest shows up with his following of disciples and says “your baby is special…God has big plans for him, Angels just appeared over the house to tell us- we’d like to keep him. Hope you don’t mind.”  WHAT? Lol

But he did grow up and found many monasteries and convents and spread the faith. On the top of what is now Mt Brandon, he supposedly had a vision of the promised land. He set out with his monk disciples on a 7 year journey…where it’s believed he made it to Iceland, Greenland and even possibly America! …and returned to Ireland. Sort of unbelievable for the time…but that explains the statue:

  

The next town, Killorglin, we went through had the most unusual statue in its town center. A Goat King. His name is King Puck. For one weekend a year, they crown a goat King for the weekend. 

From their website:

Puck Fair (In Irish Aonach an Phoic, meaning โ€œFair of the He-Goatโ€, โ€˜pocโ€™ being the Irish for a male goat) is one of Irelandโ€™s oldest fairs

Every year a goat catcher goes up into the mountains to catch a wild goat. The goat is brought back to the town and the โ€œQueen of Puckโ€, traditionally a young school girl from one of the local primary schools, crowns the goat โ€œKing Puckโ€œ.

On August 10th, The โ€œKingโ€ is then paraded through the town before being elevated onto a high stand in the town square for three days. On the 3rd day of the fair, he is brought down to be led back to his mountain home. In the middle of the town square, he is crowned which signifies that the festivities may begin.

Too bad we weren’t here in August. Lol

   

   

We continued on around to the next peninsula, the Dingle peninsula- the most western point of mainland Europe. We came upon Inch beach as the first main pull off from the main drag. We hit it at low tide so we could really see just how wide and flat the beach was down from the cliffs we were driving on.

 

Driving further, we saw a sign for Min Aird (Minard) Castle. I hadn’t seen anything about this anywhere so I figured it must just be something not worth seeing but we took a detour anyway. So happy we did. It was the best part of the day. This old castle was another destroyed by Cromwell’s army- only this one had only been built about a hundred years before by the Fitzgeralds. So sad. I want to buy it and restore it. This place was the epitome of perfection in Ireland. I wonder what the going rate for an oceanfront castle is these days…

The approach from the side road 

The beach here is what is called a “storm beach”  because the big boulders are smoothed by rolling around the ocean floor with the tides and then during huge storms they are thrown around and sometimes out the water, collecting here.

At low tide the beach is very sandy but at high tide the sand is covered. Can you imagine this being your morning walk after waking up in your castle? ๐Ÿ˜‰ 

  

 A view from the beach 

A fresh water stream ran right in front of the castle, over the rounded rocks and put into the ocean. Fresh water and sea water right together.   

  The constructed walls around the stream leading to the ocean.

  

After leaving this site and back on the Main road, we saw our first Ireland rainbow. It was faint but definitely cool.

This took us to the town of Dingle. We walked around the town and looked at a few shops. Found a farmers market where were able to find beetroot and carrot soup and Kegan found some artisan salami: venison and chorizo and some sort of strange salad hand pie

  

  

  

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After Dingle begins the Slea Head Drive around the rim of the peninsula, with the first major site to see being the Beehive Huts along the side of the road.

These are from BC times and they were used until around 1100AD. The guy who I assume owns the land has set up a booth to take 3 euro to see it, so we obliged. 

   

      

 

We had some friendly seagulls stop on the hood of our car when we got back  

 

A cross looking out over the ocean further along the drive.  

I had Kegan photograph the road I was driving on for all of this. One lane wide with a rock face one side and a rock wall on the other. You figure out how to pass a car on that! 

      

I walked to the edge of our lookout point and saw people getting in! It’s like 45 degrees outside.  

On around, I met some more locals ๐Ÿ™‚ 

  

We toured the Gallarus Oratory- the only surviving example of this specific type of architecture remaining in Ireland. The masons that built it used no mortar and now 1000-1200 years later- it’s still waterproof! Insane. The stones are angled slightly down to that no water runs inside. Genius.

This was an early Christian church for the people of the area. 

  

  

  Photo from inside turned out cool due to the rain on my lens here.

This pretty much completed the loop and we headed back to a Dingle to check into our hotel. We ate dinner in Dingle at a little restaurant called Out of The Blue.

Fish chowder for appetizer

  I had the grilled monkfish tail

Kegan had the whole Plaice fish.

I regrettably googled “monkfish” after ordering. I shouldn’t have. That is one scary fish- but his tail is delicious. lol

Yeah…you’re welcome for the nightmares, too.  Who decides that this should be on a restaurant menu??? If I caught that, I’d think it needed an exorcism.   

After dinner we headed to a local pub for drinks and we had hoped some traditional music. Turns out they only do live music most places during “season” – the summer when everyone goes to Ireland and we are a few weeks too early.

That’s ok though, we sat and talked to the cook and bartender for a couple hours and had the place to ourselves. They even let me borrow an iPhone charging cable so I could type this blog up while we drank. UPDATE: I just received a text from my mother that Norah is asleep. At 11pm! ๐Ÿ™‚ I guess we can wrap it up and head back to the lodge and actually get some sleep! 

  

   

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