McKinney Gypsy Caravan

One part travel blog. One part nerdy history lesson.

Page 26 of 27

Day 3 – Cork, Blarney Castle and the Ring of Kerry

Day 3 was a full day! I feel like we did so much and still arrived at our bed and breakfast ahead of schedule!

I’d love to start the blog by showing you pictures of the Blarney Castle, which I assure you we went to this morning first thing and were the only people on the entire castle grounds! And Kegan kissed the Blarney Stone…and I climbed all the way to the top! 

But… It was at this point I realized that my camera was saying “No Card”.

Damn.

After uploading my photos last night, I was too tired to get back up and put my card back in my camera, instead leaving it on the bedside table to put back in the morning. Between rolling around and Norah staying awake until 4am (Yeah. 4am. Lol) it apparently was knocked into the floor and we left town without it. 

So I called the hotel and they easily found it and we went back to Cork to pick it up. Phew. That could have been bad for the blog posting! 🙂

And then we were off again. And instead of giving Donna crap for putting the half-gallon of milk in the cooler half open and flooding our lunches, or blowing up both power converters because she doesn’t understand basic electricity, or only bringing a 500 Euro which is basically the equivalent of Monopoly money here because no one will take a bill that large… Wait…what was I getting at? Oh yeah, so now we are making fun of me for trying to lose our pictures and making us backtrack to the driving hellhole that was Cork. Ha

We headed south along the coast and saw our first megalithic site- the Drombeg Stone Circle. Aptly named because it’s in the town of Drombeg…and they are stones..in a circle.

They aren’t exactly sure what these stone circles were used for- whether it was burial ritual or sacrificial in nature… But they were definitely important. And usually located in some amazing spot. This one was no exception. This site is over 3000 years old. 3000. Like 1100BC. I can’t even wrap my head around that. 





The sign posted said that they would use these springs, which could hold almost 70 gallons of water, for cooking. They would throw heated stones into the water from a fire nearby and it could bring the entire thing to a boil in under 20 minutes.





Amazing view.

Next we drove through a cute little town called Bandy with this awesome Main Street 





Then, we were supposed to take a road that went through a mountain and had a rock tunnel to drive through, but we missed the turn and actually ended up seeing the most amazing views by going directly OVER the mountain! Haha

It was called Priest’s Leap…and it looked like another planet in places! It is this huge barren sandstone mountain and the road goes straight up. We made friends with the locals though. (baaahhhh) 









Legend has it that a priest lept from the top of this mountain while evading English soldiers and landed miles away in the aforementioned town of Bandy. The rock he lept from then melted and swallowed the chasing hounds. Supposedly you can still see the “pawprints” in a rock at the summit… And another rock in Bantry holds the marks of the horse hooves where the priest landed…but I can’t verify because I didn’t know the story until I researched tonight…and surprisingly- there was no cell service up there! 🙂





When finally came down off of the mountain, we headed towards Killarney National Park to see Torc Waterfall

It was back a trail that looked like something out of a fairy tale. Moss covered rocks and trees…so cool.







Could this thing be any cuter? ï»¿



We did a quick drive by of another 15th century Tower castle – Ross Castle since it was just a couple miles away. This was the last holdout in the Munster area in the 1600s against the eventual English takeover by Cromwell’s army.

Most of the ruined castles basically go back to the Cromwell invasion. Irish/English history is so complicated and long..but Cliff notes version: Henry VIII decided he didn’t like how Ireland’s Gaelic tribe leaders- the Fitzgeralds – were treating the Tudors so he decided to just take over Ireland, not recognize the Fitzgeralds anymore and install a new “leader” in Ireland. Then remember that England was Protestant and they hated Catholics…the English parliament basically executed King Charles I for being too catholic and this created this open and acceptable hatred of Catholics- they couldn’t hold government positions, Catholicism was outlawed, etc. This didn’t go over well and eventually the Irish rebelled and more or less “won” for about 10 years until Oliver Cromwell showed up and basically demolished the entire island in the 1650s. They killed anyone that was involved in the rebellion, they shipped off anyone who owned land to be slaves in the West Indies, they burned all the crops and lands therefore causing a famine AND bubonic plague hit about the same time. So, in a nutshell that’s why everything here is ruins instead of amazing castles. Estimates say Ireland lost one third of its entire population during this time. It was not a good time to be Irish. So, again- catholism was illegal, Catholics couldn’t live in town…absolute insanity. After a king was finally placed back over England, a lot of the crazy anti-Catholic laws didn’t stand… But Irish Catholics have always been the hated second class citizens to the English. Lol



Anyway, back from my nerdy history detour- We took some “backroads” which I’m quickly learning in Ireland basically means a half paved one lane driveway. I’m dead serious- other than the main highways, every road is a one lane road. Wasn’t expecting that… But I’m adapting. 

Along the road around Dunloe were these old Ogham Stones. They had been found around the area and displayed here. Ogham is a very old Celtric written language. Seems to originate around 3-400AD…. The lines actually are sort of like a code. We discussed it in the car…it makes more sense that this may have been a secret code by the Celts because by 300AD, the Romans controlled the area, with their Latin language…it wouldn’t make sense that there wasn’t a written language at all but the Celts may have needed a way to communicate without the Romans knowing.





We ended our day by driving some of the Ring of Kerry- an amazing oceanfront stretch of road in the southeast corner of Ireland.



This led us to our bed and breakfast for the night, just outside of Portmagee where we ate dinner at a traditional Irish pub.

Since its a harbor fishing town- I got the fish platter and seafood chowder. Kegan had fish and chips and Donna had Irish stew.





Day 2 – Cashel, Kilkenny and Cork

We left Dublin bright and early after some coffee and Irish breakfast. Like our staples would be bacon, sausage, biscuits, scrambled eggs, irish staples are black and white pudding (basically some sort of sausage/oat/spice mixture pressed together- it was amazing!) poached eggs, rashers-which are kind of like a cross between bacon and ham, and croissants. We headed south out of Dublin towards the town of Kilkenny.

On our way, we passed the Rock of Dunamase-an early castle now just ruins on a hill. I found an audio tour for my phone, so we walked around. It was easy to tell why the site would have been chosen back around the year 800. This rock shoots straight up out of the lowlands with the majority of the sides being unscalable. 

If you’ve never seen the History Channel show “Vikings” – go watch it now! If you have then you know how the Vikings terrorized England and Ireland for a couple hundred years around this time. Also, if you watch Vikings, you’ll love this fact: one of the earliest artifacts they’ve found at the site was a gold coin- with the inscription of King Egbert of Wessex.

Wessex was a kingdom on the south east shore of England…King Egbert was its King from about 800-840. So the theory of how that coin ended up all the way at the top of a rock in the middle of Ireland is that it was dropped by a Viking during a raid and battle at Dunamase given that Vikings raided the area and they were establishing farmlands in Wessex under authorization of Egbert.

Next we drove through Kilkenny and stopped a grocery store to get some meats/cheeses/bread and some milk for the tiny tyrant. This way we could picnic a couple lunches this week on our way  through the countryside.

After that we stopped to see the Rock of Cashel- another castle. This one in much better shape but still a ruin. St Patrick baptized the King of Munster here at this castle so it’s also called St Patrick’s rock.

Even though most of these ruins are from around 1100-1200AD, there was definitely other structures here for hundreds of years before. 

The large cathedral and the round tower are very clearly products of the Viking and Norman invasions. They would use these to spot an attack coming miles away and to hide their valuable items during an attack. The first window is 12 feet high. The monks would climb a ladder to the entrance then pull the ladder up behind him. 

We continued towards Cork via the curviest single lane road you can imagine through a little town called Cappoquin that had some cool bridges.

 

Finally- we arrived in Cork. Wow. This city is amazing- but the streets were not meant for cars! Everything seemed single lane wide and people didn’t  get over! 🙂  it was stressful. Lol and I didn’t get many good pictures because of the driving…maybe tomorrow I will 😉

We did seek out St Finne Barre cathedral to drive by since the sun hasn’t set yet.


Had some fish and chips and a pint of Beamish, a Guinness-esque dark ale, in the hotel restaurant tonight. Did not disappoint. Also we discovered “Brown Sauce” tonight which is basically an amazing mixture of Worchestershire sauce and Heinz 57.

Day 1 -Dublin

We arrived around 7am Dublin time (really like 3am our East coast time) but no rest for the wicked…we had a full day planned!

So, a change of clothes and off to the rental car counter to rent our home away from home. We were given a Hyundai crossover SUV with ZERO trunk space. Cars are just different over here! Lol

Now, the massive fun part- I got to try my hand at driving on the “wrong” side of the road…and the wrong side of the car none the less! That is no easy task to retrain your brain …driving on no sleep…into the heart of downtown. Lol

But…it was a success and we arrived at the “car park” in one piece…and only a couple minor scares 🙂 I’m an old pro now. Ha! Kegan and Mom “yelled” at me because my ADD brain saw a TicTac billboard that said #MadeInIreland… “Erin! Eyes off the billboards” haha no faith in me…at all. Lol

We grabbed coffee at this cool little market next to the hotel and then hitched an Uber ride across Dublin to start walking our way back through the city.

We started at the Famine Memorial. If you have Irish heritage in the US… More than likely you can trace it back to people who immigrated to the U.S. Between around 1835-1855. The Irish claim their greatest export has always been people…and it’s true. There have historically always been few opportunities for Irish farmers. Even back during the time of the famine- farmers weren’t farming for themselves like we think of. They farmed rich English landowner’s lands- in return, they were allowed to build a shack of a house on the land and were usually paid for most of their work in potatoes. The Great Potato Famine was due to a fungus or blite to the potato crop that year… And therefore, millions of Irish starved or emigrated before they starved… And what’s really sad is that we imagine a destitute country with no food, but actually there were plenty of crops still growing and being exported at the time in Ireland…but their government demanded that no impact to trade occur and would not recognize the fact that land barons were literally watching their workers and “commonfolk” starve and wouldn’t pass any laws that would help the irish people. An all too common disconnect throughout Irish history. (*Democrat alert- haha I venture to say this may be a very early case study in why trickle down economics doesnt work)

This British Protestant vs Irish Catholic feud is the major theme through much of the history of modern Ireland. The Easter Rebellion of 1916 was a major outbreak of violence that eventually led to the independence of an Irish free state in 1920.

The site they erected the famine memorial is where the first ship took off out of Dublin bound for the U.S. with its first set of passengers. I imagine a boat like that one tied up to the anchors still visible on the street.






Next we were on a mission to find SIM cards for our phones. AT&T has plans but nothing that actually included any data and they charge $19.99 a MB over their tiny plan. A MB…not a GB. My normally monthly data usage would have cost me about $2,000!

So… To further prove what crooks US Cell carriers are- we were able to get a SIM card for my phone for $20 that included unlimited calls, texts and data for 30 days.

An iPad data card with unlimited is $15….and we think everything is so much more expensive over here. Lol

We crossed the Trinity bridge to the campus of Trinity College. 



I had been waiting to see this for years. The long room of Trinity Library. An amazing site! It houses books that are hundreds of years old. Some hand written and bound on vellum…including the famous Book of Kells. This is probably Ireland’s most famous antiquity. It was handwritten and handdrawn in Latin in a monestary around the year 800. 





It’s kind of amazing, that around the time the rest of Europe was in its dark ages, Ireland’s new found Christian religion (brought to them by none other than St Patrick- a Roman boy who was kidnapped and sold into slavery by the Irish, only to escape years later, study to be a minister and came back to Ireland to spead the word of Christianity) was producing the greatest works in a very enlightened era.

Next we were supposed to walk along to Christ Church Cathedral but Norah was too cold…poor thing was shaking in her stroller, so we headed back to the hotel because really we all needed naps anyway. Lol





After naps, we were thirsty! Good thing there is the Guinness Storehouse…and on St Patrick’s Day no less. They had appetizers and live music. A pretty cool U2 cover band. It was quite the party. The Guinness served here really is better. Anything shipped out of Ireland has to be pasteurized and this really changes the texture and flavor of the beer. I still didn’t think it was anything amazing… But it was good.









Note the skill in the pour…he poured a 4 leaf clover in the head foam from the tap! Bravo.





Norah and Donna were done for the night- but we had dinner plans.

I had made reservations at L.Mulligan’s Grocer, a cool little restaurant and bar I found online. It did not disappoint.

I had a Saison beer to start and Kegan had a really dark ale.



We had Scotch Eggs and Black Pudding appetizers





Kegan had a wild boar stew and I had pork belly on a whim because Kegan ordered what I was going to… This was cooked so that the skin on the top basically became a pork rind. I cannot emphasize how amazing this was. Haha 





I’m a food porn picture taker…better get used to it 🙂

So, we didn’t see everything we had hoped to…it was freezing and rained a bit… But overall, it was a really good day! 

Locked and Loaded

We are on board, on time and Norah just spent 4 hours climbing stairs in Newark. So she is currently watching Monsters, Inc and lounging. 90% asleep already. I’ll probably not update until Tuesday night since my cell phone won’t work and I’ll have to wait for Wifi.

I’ll try to find wifi and quick update if possible.



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